Aston Martin in Forza Horizon 6

Country: UK | Founded: 1913 you get the idea.

Aston Martin

Honestly, Two cars, you get the idea. Trust me on this. That's the entire Aston Martin lineup in FH6. But tbh, ngl, when you look at what those two cars actually are, the number stops mattering. And the Valkyrie sits at PI 960, which puts it among the highest-ranked vehicles in the entire game. The Valhalla at PI 905 is the "accessible" one, and that word is doing a lot of heavy lifting.

Here's what makes this brand fascinating in FH6: Aston Martin didn't just hand Playground Games two production cars. And the Valkyrie is basically an F1 car with number plates, co-developed with Red Bull Racing, a naturally aspirated V12 that revs past 11,000 RPM with more downforce than most race cars. But the Valhalla takes that DNA and dials it down to something a mortal can actually drive without their brain lagging behind the car. Same philosophy, different execution. I've put hundreds of laps into both and they reward completely different driving styles, which is impressive for a two-car roster.

So two cars with a 55 PI gap between them, each demanding a fundamentally different approach to extract the performance. One wrong input in the Valkyrie and you're in the shadow realm. The Valhalla forgives. Both are stupidly fast, no cap.

Available Vehicles

Two cars separated by 55 PI, from S1's upper reaches to S2's elite tier. Both mid-engine, both dripping with F1-derived tech, both capable of embarrassing cars with twice the cylinder count. That is the whole Aston vibe, honestly.

Valhalla (2025)

Class: S1 | PI: 905

Valkyrie (2023)

Class: S2 | PI: 960

The Valhalla and Valkyrie sit at the sharp end of S1 and S2 respectively, and between them they cover virtually every high-speed road racing scenario in FH6. If Playground Games adds more Astons through seasonal updates, great. But this pair already gives you more engineering depth than most brands' entire lineups.

Driving Characteristics

The Valkyrie at PI 960 is genuinely scary the first time you floor it. And I don't mean "oh this is fast" scary. I mean your brain stops processing what's happening because the car is generating decisions faster than you can make them. The naturally aspirated V12 screams past 11,000 RPM and the aero generates so much downforce that corners you'd brake for in anything else become flat-out in the Valkyrie. The problem? That downforce falls off a cliff below about 80 mph. Slow corners are genuinely terrifying because the mechanical grip isn't there to back up the aero promise. You have to trust the car in fast sections fr and then completely recalibrate for slow ones. It's the weirdest driving experience in FH6 and I say that as a compliment.

But the Valhalla is the car most people should actually drive. PI 905 in S1 means you're competitive without being in OHKO territory every corner. Honestly the hybrid V6 sounds nothing like the Valkyrie's V12 but the torque fill from the electric motor gives you acceleration that feels like cheating. Mid-corner the Valhalla is more neutral than the Valkyrie and way more forgiving fr when you overdrive it. But here's the thing: the Valhalla understeers on entry if you carry too much speed. The Valkyrie will murder you for the same mistake. Different punishments for the same crime.

So weight transfer management is the skill that separates good Aston Martin drivers from great ones. Both cars are mid-engine, which means the polar moment of inertia is low and the car rotates willingly. But that also means weight shifts happen fast. Trail brake into a corner and the rear lightens instantly. Get on the throttle too early and the rear squats but the front washes out. ngl, there is a rhythm to it, a specific cadence of brake release and throttle application that took me about three solid evenings of practice before it became muscle memory. Once it clicks though, the corner speed you can carry is absurd. Like, "did the game glitch" levels of absurd.

And tire temperatures matter more on these two cars than virtually anything else in FH6. The Valkyrie in particular chews through cold tires like they're made of ice. First lap of any race is just survival. Second lap the grip comes in and suddenly you're half a second faster through every sector. I've started doing a full warm-up lap before any competitive Valkyrie session because the difference between cold and hot tires is genuinely 2-3 seconds per lap on longer circuits. The Valhalla is less extreme about this but you'll still notice it, especially on tracks with long straights where the tires cool down between braking zones.

Tire compound choice on these cars follows a simple rule: soft for circuits with 8+ corners per mile, medium for everything else. Soft compounds on the Valkyrie give you the mechanical grip the aero can't provide in slow corners, and that trade-off alone is worth half a second per lap on twisty tracks. On high-speed circuits though, the soft tires overheat by lap 3 and you lose more time than you gained. Medium compound is the sweet spot for consistency across a full race distance.

Best Events

So Aston Martins are road racing weapons and road racing is where they belong. The Coastal Highway and Mountain Pass circuits play perfectly to the aero strengths. Long sweeping corners where you can carry speed and let the downforce do its thing. The Valkyrie in particular is borderline unfair on Mountain Pass, the high-speed esses section lets it pull gaps that nothing in S2 can close. I've won races there by 8+ seconds against cars with higher PI ratings, purely because the aero works where their mechanical grip runs out.

But street scene events are solid for the Valhalla specifically. The hybrid torque fill means you can punch through gaps in traffic that other S1 cars have to wait for. The Valkyrie is too much for street scene tbh. Too twitchy, too sensitive to surface changes, and one clip of a traffic car at Valkyrie speeds sends you into orbit. Street scene with the Valkyrie is a rage quit waiting to happen.

And sprint races and highway pulls slightly favor the Valhalla over the Valkyrie and that's genuinely surprising. The Valkyrie's top speed isn't actually that high because the aero creates so much drag. The Valhalla with the right gearing can hang with pure top-speed builds in S1, which honestly nobody expects from an Aston Martin. I've caught more than a few McLarens and Lamborghinis sleeping on the highway with a properly geared Valhalla.

Dirt. Cross-country. Anything with jumps or water. Don't. The aero is useless off pavement, the ride height is too low, and both cars bottom out on anything rougher than a gravel driveway. Keep Aston Martins on asphalt where the F1-derived aero can actually do its job. You're not Colin McRae and these cars aren't rally machines.

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Tuning Guide

So Aston Martin tuning is about preserving what the factory got right while fixing the handful of things FH6's physics model punishes. These cars are engineered to within an inch of their lives. The biggest gains come from aero balance, differential settings, and gearing. Power upgrades are secondary, sometimes actively harmful if you pile them on before fixing the chassis.

Aerodynamics

And front aero at 65 percent, rear at 55 percent of maximum. This might sound conservative but trust me on this one. Maxing out the aero on either car creates so much drag that you lose 15-20 mph of top speed and gain maybe 0.2 seconds of corner speed. The trade-off is not worth it on anything except pure handling circuits. For the Valkyrie specifically, run the rear wing one click lower than the front wing. This shifts the aero balance forward slightly and kills the high-speed understeer that the stock setup has above 150 mph. On the Valhalla, equal front and rear aero works better because the chassis is inherently more balanced.

Suspension

Springs: soften by 8 percent front and 12 percent rear from stock. FH6's roads are bumpier than any real track these cars were designed for, and the stock spring rates are too aggressive for the surface quality. The rear softening in particular helps the Valkyrie put power down over bumps without snapping into oversteer. Anti-roll bars: one click stiffer front, two clicks softer rear for the Valkyrie. Equal front and rear for the Valhalla. The Valkyrie's rear bar is too stiff from factory and makes the car nervous on corner exit. Ride height: drop 3 clicks front and rear, but don't go lower. These cars need the suspension travel.

Differential

So both cars are mid-engine RWD, so diff settings are critical. Acceleration lock at 70 percent, deceleration at 15 percent. The high accel lock gives you the corner exit traction these cars need without creating push on entry. For the Valkyrie specifically, I run 75 percent accel and 12 percent decel. The extra lock helps manage the abrupt power delivery from the V12. Too much decel lock and the car refuses to rotate on corner entry. Too little and it's a drift machine, which is fun but slow, no cap.

Gearing

Final drive: shorten by 12 percent on the Valkyrie, 10 percent on the Valhalla. The stock gear ratios are set for real-world speeds that FH6 tracks never reach. The Valkyrie's stock gearing is particularly bad, fourth gear tops out at a speed you'll never see outside of a highway pull. Shortening the final drive gives you usable acceleration in every gear and actually improves top speed on most circuits because you're not lugging in tall gears. Individual gear tuning: stretch first gear by 2 clicks to avoid wheelspin off the line, then shorten gears 2 through 5 progressively. Sixth gear as an overdrive for highway sections.

Brakes

Race brakes before horsepower upgrades. Every single time. ngl, the stock brakes on both cars are adequate for road driving but inadequate for the speeds these things carry into corners. With race brakes and proper pressure balance (52 percent front bias), the Valkyrie can brake 15 meters later than stock into a hairpin. That's worth 0.3-0.4 seconds per corner and it adds up to multiple seconds per lap. Brake pressure at 105 percent, nothing higher or you lock up on bumps. The Valhalla benefits from the same setup but the gains are slightly smaller since its stock brakes are better.

Rival Comparison

Aston Martin competes in the upper echelons of S1 and S2 against brands with much deeper rosters. The Valkyrie at PI 960 squares up against hypercars like the Ferrari FXX-K and the McLaren Senna, and the matchup comes down to track type. On aero-dependent circuits the Valkyrie destroys everything in its PI bracket. On stop-start technical layouts, the Senna's mechanical grip advantage narrows the gap. The Valhalla at PI 905 fights in crowded S1 territory against the Porsche 911 GT3 RS, Lamborghini Huracan variants, and the Ferrari 488 Pista. It holds its own through a combination of hybrid torque and mid-engine balance that the rear-engine Porsches and front-engine Ferraris can't quite replicate.

But the honest truth about comparing Aston Martins to rivals: track choice determines the winner more than the car. Run the Valkyrie against a Senna on a handling circuit and the Aston wins by a margin that looks like cheating. Run the same matchup on a circuit with long straights and heavy braking zones, and the Senna claws it back. The Valhalla is more consistent across different track types but never dominates any single one the way the Valkyrie dominates aero tracks. If you only have credits for one, test drive both on your favorite circuit and trust the stopwatch. The spec sheet for these cars is practically fiction compared to how they actually perform on track.

Collection Guide

So both Aston Martins in FH6 are obtainable but the paths are different. The Valhalla should be in the Autoshow, which makes it the straightforward purchase. Credits and done. The Valkyrie typically rotates through seasonal playlist rewards, which means you need to grab it during the active week or risk waiting months for the next rotation. This exact scenario happened to me with a seasonal Ferrari last year and I'm still bitter about it. Set an in-game reminder when the Valkyrie pops up in the playlist. Do not skip that week.

If you miss the seasonal window, the auction house is your backup. Check it on weekends, especially Sunday evenings when listing activity peaks. Prices on the Valkyrie fluctuate wildly, anywhere from 8 to 20 million credits depending on how recently the last seasonal rotation was. The Valhalla is cheaper and more consistently available. Just buy it from the Autoshow and save the auction house hunting for the Valkyrie.

Common Tuning Mistakes

Maxing out aero on the Valkyrie is the #1 mistake I see and it ruins the car. Full downforce looks right on paper because more grip is more grip, right? Nope. fr. The drag penalty from max aero on the Valkyrie is so severe that you lose 20 mph of top speed and the car becomes a sitting duck on any straight longer than 300 meters. You gain maybe a tenth in corners and lose half a second on straights. That math does not math. Keep aero at 55-65 percent and trust the mechanical grip.

Power upgrades before chassis work. The Valkyrie already has 1,000+ horsepower from a screaming V12. Adding more power without first sorting the suspension and aero makes the car actively slower because you can't use any of the extra grunt. The car becomes a tire-smoking meme that looks fast in screenshots and loses to well-tuned A-class cars on track. Build order that actually works: aero balance first, suspension second, weight reduction third, brakes fourth, and power dead last. The car will be faster at the same PI than any power-first build, I've tested this back to back across five different circuits.

Ignoring the warm-up lap. I know it sounds like try-hard nonsense but the Valkyrie's tire model is genuinely temperature-sensitive and the first lap on cold tires is up to 3 seconds slower than lap 2. In online races where qualifying isn't a thing, that first lap often decides the race because you can't recover the gap. Do a partial warm-up lap before queuing into competitive events. Or just accept that you'll be playing catch-up for the first two minutes. Your call, but I've lost too many races on cold tires to pretend it doesn't matter.